老字號酒樓一間間咁執笠,想歎茶都冇乜地方去?唔少人趕住去食「最後一餐」。以前咁受歡迎,而家真係冇人食喇咩?

粵語最財經 December 4, 2025
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粵語最財經

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成日幫襯、食咗十幾年嘅老字號茶樓都執笠喇! 以前門口成日大排長龍、口碑好好,但呢排好多老字號都執晒笠,想飲個早茶都冇地方去。 呢股倒閉潮由廣州蔓延到深圳,繼 33 年歷史嘅明香酒家閂門之後,金皇廷酒家亦宣佈會喺 2025 年 12 月 16 號停止營業。 金皇廷嘅停業通知帶有儀式感,承諾會員卡餘額會搞退款,呢種對合約精神嘅堅持,亦道出老字號喺時代變革同經營困境下嘅無奈。 呢啲充滿人情味、有晒煙火氣嘅地方,正靜靜雞同我哋講再見。 唔係話老字號唔得,而係佢哋跟唔上後生仔嘅需求,又冇辦法有效咁降低高昂嘅租金同人工支出。 最終,呢啲幾十年嘅老鋪喺效率革命同需求更新嘅夾縫入面,做完咗最後一場宴席。 金皇廷、33 年嘅明香海鮮酒家、同埋美心集團旗下、喺深圳最後一間分店嘅翠園,都先後結業。經營者坦言,執笠係逼不得已,係時代變化嘅結果。 租金同人力成本不斷升,加上後生一代轉向外賣同網紅餐廳,令傳統大型粵菜酒樓嘅生存空間越嚟越細。美心中菜都打算將來開細一截嘅舖頭,壓低人力成本,並發展零售產品。 老字號其實好矛盾:一方面想維持傳統形象,另一方面又想迎合現代需求。好似 161 年歷史嘅全聚德,將烤鴨店打造成空中四合院,吸引到客,但利潤就冇升。 上半年營業額同淨利潤雙雙下跌。好多客影完相就走,復購率跟唔上。佢哋又落場做鴨肉零食、開社區小店賣熟食,但搞到品牌風格令消費者好難適應,最終陷入兩頭唔討好嘅尷尬局面。 講到底,老字號受傳統思維束縛,面對網紅餐飲品牌嘅營銷攻勢,完全冇招架之力。產品創新亦唔夠,菜式多年未變,服務意識仲集體性咁缺失,好似狗不理咁,俾人投訴價錢貴、難食、服務差,品牌形象嚴重受損。 但喺呢場閉店潮下都有破局者。廣州惠如樓透過精品店承接品質需求,將傳統茶樓變成後生仔潮流地標。佢哋將白糖漿換成黑糖,推出青檸黑糖蛋散,同埋酸菜魚皮腸粉,呢種傳統同潮流嘅混搭,玩得好明白。 當老字號學識用後生仔嘅語言講故事,用 Z 世代嘅方式營造場景,百年老店就能夠喺數碼時代續寫新傳奇。老字號要生存落去,就要學識喺情懷同現實之間搵到個平衡。 因為,後生仔想要嘅從來都唔係老古董,而係影得相發到朋友圈嘅老古董。

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