Pocket Square Details, Fabrics & Handrolled Edges vs. Machine Hem

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Pocket Squares 101: https://gentl.mn/hand-rolled-vs-machine-rolled-pocket-square-edges Pocket Square folding techniques: https://gentl.mn/2W36tjH Want to stay updated? Sign up here for free: https://gentl.mn/2HDyvcM Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel! https://www.youtube.com/user/thegentlemansgazette --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Gentleman's Gazette https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/ https://gentl.mn/2QrqL0j Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/gentlemansgazette Free EBOOK: https://gentl.mn/2HDyvcM #pocketsquares #accessoriesformen #notsponsored SHOP THE VIDEO: 1. Orange Exotic Caribbean Boutonniere - https://gentl.mn/2WbZ41G 2. Ivory Silk-Wool Pocket Square with Hunting Motifs - https://gentl.mn/2HDlfVt Something to keep in mind though is that not all pocket squares are created equal; there are definitely squares out there that are made from lower quality materials and with lower qualities of construction and the discerning gentlemen will be able to notice these details easily. What factors should you be looking for in choosing a quality pocket square then? Well, there are basically three big ones; the material used, the size of the pocket square, and how the edges are stitched. Before we get into the fine details of edges though, let's first go over the pocket square construction materials. We will start with silk which is a versatile classic. Silk squares are often going to be particularly compact in your pocket and they're good for unstructured folds like a puff fold, for example. Linen pocket squares are also extremely versatile. Often, they'll have more structured edges but soft and supple centers so they'll be easy to fold. Woollen pocket squares are truly for the connoisseur.They can look particularly smart when worn with other heavier and warmer fabrics in the cold months. Cotton pocket squares are available as well but overall, they're a less refined option. Finally here, polyester pocket squares are inexpensive, lightweight, and durable but they are best avoided. They often look overly shiny in their finish and are almost always machine stitched. Additionally, you can also find blends of multiple types of fabrics that will carry the characteristics of each type. Pocket Square Edges: Also called a rolled edge, rolled hem, or rollover stitch, the most refined pocket squares are going to feature edges that are hand rolled into a tight and tubular edge and then also stitched by hand. Typically, you'll see about five to six stitches to an inch or a stitch every half centimeter or so though this can vary depending on the square. As you might imagine, squares with a higher stitch density are going to take longer to produce than those with a lower stitch density and the lower the number of overall stitches, the looser the edge is going to be. Given that it is handmade, the stitch will be slightly uneven but this is a plus, it gives it a unique and artisanal finish. Hand stitching can also be done in a variety of styles, of course, including a straight stitch or an X stitch as well as many others. In the particular example of X stitching, you won't see it very often as even X stitching done by hand is relatively difficult to achieve and takes quite a bit of time. At Fort Belvedere, however, we pride ourselves in the fact that you can find some of the highest quality hand X stitched pocket squares on the market today. One additional distinction to note with hand rolled pocket square edges, if the edge is rolled on to the front side of a pocket square, which is to say, the sign that has the pattern printed or woven onto it, this is known as a French rolled hem. However, if the edges rolled to the back side of the pocket square, this is known as an Italian rolled hem. Whichever style of rolling you prefer is simply a personal preference and one isn't any more formal than the other. In the case of the French rolled hem, it's a particular style of many scarves and other garments made by Hermes. And it's worth noting that the precision and craftsmanship involved in a hand rolled pocket square edge will probably mean that the resulting square has a bit of a higher price tag but as with most things, you get what you pay for. Meanwhile, mass-market retailers often aren't going to want to pay for the additional labor that goes into hand stitching pocket square edges. As such, most mass-produced squares that you'll find on the market today have machine stitched edges. There are a number of different types of machined edges as well. Simplest of these is the parallel edge which is flat and simple with only one line of stitching and doesn't contain much character or dimension in the pocket square's edge and while the so called Z shaped edge features a bit more character and interest in its stitching, the edges of the fabric itself are still going to be relatively flat and lifeless.