Restoration of Winged Hussars Sword - Full Process

Screws And Tools June 3, 2025
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Screws And Tools

@screwsandtools

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Hello I'm Alex! Thank you for attention and welcome to my channel. Screws and Tools is a channel dedicated to restoring old, antique, vintage, and rusty tools. I cover woodworking, metalworking (including non‑ferrous metals), leatherworking, knife making, and various DIY projects—all produced by me alone. I restore items such as knives, Caucasian daggers, swords, shashkas, sabers, cleavers, axes, and kitchen tools, continually honing my craft. And importantly, I always show my mistakes—because when you watch my videos, you learn not only from what works, but also from what doesn’t. I hope you enjoy my videos—thank you for watching! I truly appreciate every visit to my channel. Don’t forget to subscribe and join me on this restoration journey!

Video Description

Hi! Today restoration of old rusty Hussar Saber. At last, I’ve managed to acquire this rare and valuable piece. Many viewers have been waiting a long time for this video—and the restoration itself. And now, I’m finally beginning the restoration project. I bought the saber from a man living in the countryside. Its condition was poor: deep rust, no handle, and a thick layer of grime or grease on the surface—it was hard to tell exactly. The blade had deep corrosion. According to the seller, the item had been found in a barn among scrap iron and various old items. Firstly, I removed the guard and pommel and placed them in a rust remover. I began cleaning the blade by hand—very slowly, step by step. The remains of old wood and wire where the grip used to be were thrown out. Cleaning the blade took me about three days. I used the following materials: citric acid, 9% vinegar, apple cider vinegar, baking soda, scouring powder, and a metal surface cleaner. I also used sandpaper, WD-40, a sponge, and soft rubber. It was labor-intensive work. After cleaning, I oiled the blade and moved on to the guard and pommel. In my opinion, the guard, pommel, and extended tang were added later. Sabers of this type rarely had such a long tang—it didn’t match the geometry of the original grip. I concluded that the tang had been welded on, most likely in modern times or in the 20th century. Why? Because if the tang had been original, it would have had a completely different shape. It’s clear someone had attempted to modify the item. I added a bit of metal to the guard to ensure the blade sat more securely and tightly. I removed the excess length of the tang and made a brass spacer using soldering and flux. Then I boiled the guard and pommel in oil so it would seep into every gap and crevice. I then blackened these parts by heating them and plunging them into hot oil. This technique must be done very carefully! For the grip, I used beech wood. The first attempt failed—I didn’t take the exact dimensions into account, as this was my first time crafting a handle of this type. On the second try, I managed to carve the correct shape, sand it, and fit it precisely to the guard and tang. After that, I drilled the grip, inserted the tang, wrapped the grip with cord, and covered it with leather, which I sewed in place. Then I riveted the assembly and secured everything further with epoxy resin to protect against moisture and debris. After drying, I coated the grip with linseed oil and wax, then fixed the pommel using a decorative nail and epoxy. The next stage was crafting the scabbard. Making the Scabbard: For the scabbard, I used dry linden wood. I carved the required shape and channel, glued the two halves together, carefully finished the surface, and wrapped it in natural leather. I made the fittings—two hangers and a chape—from vintage nickel silver dating back to the 20th century. The ring mounts were made of iron and soldered using silver and flux. After completing this step, I began aging the fittings to give them an antique silver look (I love that effect). I used the following substances: ammonia (note: always perform this work in a well-ventilated area while wearing gloves, safety goggles, and a respirator), vinegar, acetic acid, more ammonia, and salt. Once the patina process was complete, I thoroughly degreased the fittings, neutralized the acid using a baking soda and water solution, dried them, and mounted them onto the scabbard. To finish, I lightly sharpened the saber’s blade—since the item now belongs to me, and I needed a sharpened edge for testing. The blade was sharpened with ordinary stones and honed with a leather strop. As always, I conducted an interesting and dynamic test. Be sure to share this video—it's rare, informative, and, I hope, inspiring. Thank you for watching! Sincerely, Alex. Thanks for attention! Good luck and health to everyone! With best wishes, Alex! Please subscribe to my channel: @ScrewsAndTools 🍖 My New Cooking channel! @screwsandtoolscooking Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/Screwsandtools Paypal: paypal.me/screwsandtools Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/scresandtools/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/screwsandtools/ #screwsandtools #saber #restoration

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